Short Notes on Khadi

Here are some important short notes on Khadi.

Historical evidences of fabric on Indian subcontinent:

• Indigo-dyed Indian cotton called ikat was found in Pharaoh’s tomb.
• Rose madder cloth along with spindles was found at Mohenjodaro.
• Fine fabrics from Indian subcontinent were reported in Greek and Roman traders’ accounts.
• Various designs and styles of textile materails are depicted in Anjanta and Ellora caves.

Khadi and Independence Movement

• Khadi is the only Swadeshi cloth. Swadeshi does not only means universality of using an article but also the universality in precipitation in the manufacture of that article. For manufacturing mill made cloth only an infinitesimal number of Indian can take part in it but to manufacture Khadi, millions of Indian can take part.
• Gandhiji revived Swadeshi movement and insisted Indians to boycott the foreign cloth. The spirit of nationalism was ignited through Swadeshi movement and he made Khadi as the symbol of nationalism. Khadi along with his non-violent method to strike at the foundation of colonial rule.
• The programme for reconstruction of rural economy in decentralised pattern included Khadi as the main part. He toured the whole country to popularise the Khadi and the Khadi movement.
• Gandhiji reinterpreted the meaning of white colour as purity and simplicity as they were not able to manufacture coloured Khadi clothes for women. This was done because the women who wore white sari were regarded as widow. So he asked his wife and other women of the ashram to wear white sari and set an example so that other people could follow.
• Khadi was the key for empowerment of villagers particularly women. Khadi was one of the reason for the large number of women participating in the freedom movement called Khadi Movement.
• Khadi was the symbol of nationalism and the Charkha become the icon of the independence movement.

Advantages of Khadi over synthetic cloth and its significance:

• The production of synthetic cloth consumes huge energy and water. The synthetic textile industry is among the largest producer of greenhouse gases, which amounts to 1/20th of the total carbon produced.
• On the other hand, Khadi is spun using hand and had woven. It uses no electricity and water in its production process. The process is organic and zero carbon producing. It is environment friendly.
• It is suitable for Indian weather conditions.
• Khadi production is the largest rural productivity programme in the world. With the establishment of Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), the produce reach directly to the consumers eliminating the role of intermediaries. It provides the villagers high value for their produce and to consumers, value for money.
• The Khadi production involves 80% women that stands on the notion of inclusive growth, women empowerment and changing the social order.
• Employment generation in the rural areas is one of the mission of the KVIC. The major contribution of employment schemes of KVIC is to halt the migration of villagers to urban areas by employment creation in rural areas.

The All India Textile and Garment Industry Survey of 2011-2012 that determines employment generation per crore of investment in different manufacturing sector. It found that with a crore of investment in fully integrated textile manufacturing industry, 30 jobs are created whereas; in apparel manufacturing 70 jobs are created with a crore of investment. The textiles sector generates more jobs than any other sector.

A look at numbers in Textile Industry Trade of India and the world:

• India is 2nd largest cotton and silk producer in the world.
• 2nd largest textile manufacturer in the world
• Accounting for 4% of National GDP.
• 21% of employment
• 2nd largest employer after agriculture
• 14% of industrial production and exporting 1/3rd of the production.
• Industry is predominantly cotton based i.e. 65%
• 13% of overall export earnings

Challenges

• The formation of trading blocks like North America Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP), Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA), Trans-Atlantic Trade and Investment Partnership (TTIP) and the tariff preferences given to Vietnam, Cambodia and Bangladesh by EU, Australia and Canada.
• Lack of skilled labour:
• The Indian Textile Industry can grow in the field of high value premium clothes through production of value added products. Other than this there is lot of opportunity in Technical Textile for which highly skilled labours are required. For example for production of medical textile, medical knowledge is necessary. Similarly for geo textiles, knowledge of civil engineering is needed.
• Lack of world class R&D.
• Lack of Textile Business specific infrastructure.
• The greatest challenge of making Khadi more affordable to consumers and making it more attractive without compromising the dignity of labour, simplicity and decentralisation.

Measures that can be taken:

• Focusing on R&D by using innovative techniques and also by importing technology and devise ways to increase the production and decrease the production cost.
• Negotiating with EU, Australia and Canada on FTAs.
• Diversification of products, this could happen with the help of skilled labour in the field of Technical textile and value added products.
• The Integrated Skill Development Scheme (ISDS) provide training to the labours. The coverage of this scheme has to be increased to train more people to be absorbed by the textiles sector where skilled labour is required.
• Measures that were taken in labour reforms like the introduction of fixed-term employment, easing of section 80JJAA of Income Tax Act and increase in overtime limit. The increase of overtime cap from 50 hours to 100 hours will lead to increased earnings for the labour. The fixed-term employment will make the fixed term workman at par with the permanent workman in terms of wages, incentives and working hours. The government’s initiative to bear the entire 12% of the Employee Provident Fund of new employees for three years. All these steps are in right direction.

Conclusion

The anticipated increase in employment will take place as the labours acquire skill hence it will attract more FDI and private investment. The decentralised approach in Khadi production will help in distribution of income and increasing the purchasing power of the people. In India, most mills follow lean manufacturing with 30% higher operating machine speeds in spinning and weaving which is even greater than China. With this and incorporation of the advantages, the significance of Khadi and taking the right measures, India can lead in textiles sector in the world.